every year for thanksgiving, i used to order an amazing sweet potato pecan pie from balthazar’s bakery in soho. my parents, who tend to be rather fussy asian dessert eaters with the usual “everything is too sweet or too rich” mantra, actually love the sweet potato pecan pie that i bring over. my dad is nuts about nuts, and the tart is covered in pecans, and my mom adores sweet potato everything, so that too may have something to do with it.
it occurred to me that i could just as easily whip up a version for this year’s thanksgiving get together, and that i should really start testing turkey day tart recipes right about now. i came across a pumpkin pie recipe on martha’s website that involved chocolate and that became my launching pad for the sweet potato chocolate pecan tart experiment below.
Sweet Potato Chocolate Tart with Candied Pecans
(Makes two 9.5 inch tarts, and six 3 inch tarts — yes, you’ll have a lot to share with your friends or you can open up a tart factory)
Ingredients for the tart shell and filling
||600g or 2/3 of a pâte sucrée recipe
|Sweet Potato or Yam
||~15 to 20 oz, 1 to 2 medium / large yams
||12 oz can
|Light Brown Sugar
||3 large ones
||1 ½ tsp
||6 oz (I used couverture but about ½ a bag of dark chocolate chips will work as well)
Ingredients for the candied pecans
- Blind bake pastry dough for 20 minutes at 350ºF. Let cool afterwards and set aside.
- Steam the sweet potato until completely soft and easily mash-able (~45-60 minutes depending on the size of your root).
- Peel off the skin of the sweet potato with your hands and place it in the bowl of your stand mixer.
- Add in all remaining filling ingredients with the exception of the dark chocolate.
- Using the whisk attachment, whip together these ingredients at medium speed until well combined. The mixture should become light and fluffy.
- Melt the dark chocolate over a water bath or using the microwave (to do so, put the chocolate in a bowl, microwave it for 1 minute. take it out, stir it around, do a little jig and microwave it for another minute).
- Pour about 1/3 of the batter into a separate bowl and stir the melted chocolate into the batter.
- Divide the chocolate batter amongst the tart shells. It should fill about 1/3 of the tart shell. Smooth the chocolate batter using an off-set spatula.
- Pour the remaining sweet potato batter on top of the chocolate filling. Smooth the sweet potato batter using an off-set spatula.
- In a small saucepan, melt the butter, brown sugar and water. When the ingredients are well combined and simmering, add in the pecan halves.
- Allow the pecans to simmer in the pan, until the liquid is mostly evaporated.
- Arrange the pecans on top of the sweet potato filling.
- Bake at 350ºF for ~40 minutes, or until the filling has set.
a cross section of a 3-inch tart, showing the two layers
my husband waxes poetic about the java sauce served at the aristocrat restaurant — self-proclaimed “The Philippines’ Most Popular Restaurant.” i’ve never been to aristocrat or much less stepped foot on the island of the philippines — although i’m scheduled to do so in a few months time. i am looking forward to eating many many fresh mangos, and of course, coming face to face with all the people, places and things that hubby has been telling me about for the past few years.
based on my husband’s accounts, aristocrat is famous for its barbecue chicken — a chicken that is marinated in garlic, calamansi juice and soy sauce, served alongside java rice and dipped in java sauce. it’s the sauce that forms the wellspring of hubby’s nostalgia for the land where he grew up. i haven’t figured out yet where the name comes from — possibly it’s named after a similar condiment from the island of java in indonesia. it tastes like a cross between peanut satay and hoisin. in fact, i wouldn’t be surprised if someone had mixed those two sauces together while bored in the kitchen one day, and ended up with something that was kind of catching to the tongue.
mama sita (aka. the pinoy equivalent of condiment giants such as heinz or knorr or lee kum kee or kikoman) makes a java sauce that is available to overseas buyers but which has proven to be virtually impossible to trackdown in NYC. i did find a place online based in LA that sells the stuff, and sometimes we can wrangle our west coast relatives to mail us some.
an acquaintance passed along a recipe for the sauce. i decided to make my own java sauce instead of being dependent on mama sita’s distribution capabilities. that said, i’m not quite sure i’ve gotten it right yet. i made one version that i thought was too salty and then added in more water and cornstarch to make it less salty. when hubby tasted it, he thought that it wasn’t salty enough. so i guess if i stuck to the original recipe (as below) i would be closer. i’ll post a picture and update to the recipe after the second trial.
Homemade Java Sauce Version 1.0
(revisions forthcoming . . . )
||¼ cup (i used kikoman but in retrospect i think if i used a pinoy brand or maybe ABC’s kecap manis, the taste would be closer)
- Grind peanuts in a food processor until it is as smooth as possible.
- Combine peanuts, 3/4 cup water, soy sauce and sugar in a small sauce pan. Mix till well combined.
- Bring to a boil and then turn down to a simmer until the sauce reaches the viscosity of ketchup or hoisin sauce.
Note: the hubby likes to use the sauce to accompany bbq chicken, ribs and just about anything i make that he deems too bland. i think he’d really prefer to drink the sauce like soup, if i left him to his own devices.
Note 2: mama sita’s website also mentions that the sauce contains fine wheat flour. i wonder if that’s the thickener used to give the sauce more bite.
my husband and i finally landed a spot at momofuku ko’s kitchen side table with help from my cousin E who has access to those nifty ethernet connections used for high velocity trading. out of our nine course meal, i was really impressed with 3 things:
- grated cage free foie gras served over lychees in a riesling gelee
- the shredded brussel sprouts accompanying a venison dish
- the zen-like calm of the perfectly choreographed 3-man kitchen team
for as much as i’ve heard people say that david chang is over-rated, i really admired his creativity in re-imagining a classic ingredient like foie gras. rather than being overwhelmingly rich, the grated foie came out light and airy with the requisite richness just melting as soon as it touched my tongue.
i am a neophyte when it comes to the preparation of brussel sprouts, and i think i was so enamoured of the shredded sprouts that evening because i had never imagined them being prepared in that manner. having watched the chefs prepare the dish all evening, i realised that part of the reason seeing shredded brussel sprouts is so rare (aside from the fact that my sojurns to the south are rather limited), is no doubt related to the highly labour intensive process of shredding. each sprout is run quickly up and down a hand held mandolin, and only about half the sprout is used until discarded. but, shredding transforms the brussel sprouts, becoming more flavorful with each bite and a lot less starchy. i think it’s worth the extra effort.
Shredded Sauteed Brussel Sprouts with Lemon Zest
|Fresh Brussel Sprouts
||~1.5 lbs, shredded. The professionals use a mandolin or a Japanese benriner. I’ve found at home that slicing it very finely with a sharp knife is actually quite a bit faster.
||3 cloves, minced
|Salt & Pepper
||Zest of 1 lemon
- Heat the butter, olive oil and garlic in a sautee pan.
- When the garlic is lightly brown, add in the brussel sprouts and stir vigorously until the sprouts are evenly coated.
- When the brussel sprouts have soften over medium high heat (about 10 minutes), add salt & pepper for taste.
- Remove the sprouts from the pan, and sprinkle with lemon zest on top.
i woke up this morning to find that 2 of my figs finally have started to ripen. happy fall harvest to all!
oh shiso leaves! how i sing your praises. shiso leaves are a member of the mint family but as my dear hubby describes them, they kind of taste like a cross between cilantro and mint. typically, found as a garnish to sashimi dishes, shiso leaves impart an incredible flavour and aroma when eaten raw or cooked. i found a small package of fresh shiso leaves at mitsuwa and set about making a shiso leaf wrapped teriyaki chicken for dinner. it’s incredibly easy!
Shiso Leaf Wrapped Teriyaki Chicken
||~ 1 lb (I used jidori chicken legs with the skin on, that had been quartered)
||Enough leaves to wrap each piece of chicken
||Enough to skewer each piece of chicken
- Wash chicken and pat dry.
- Marinate chicken in teriyaki sauce for 30 minutes.
- Tuck a shiso leaf inside a piece of chicken and roll it up. The leaf should be on the interior of the chicken. Secure the roll with a toothpick.
- Place the chicken in a sheet of tin foil and bed the edges up, forming a bowl-like shape. Place the foil bowl with the chicken onto a baking pan.
- Spoon about 5-6 tbsp of leftover teriyaki marinade onto the chicken rolls.
- In an oven set to 450°F or in a toaster oven set to broil, bake the chicken for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the skin of the chicken turns brown.
(Adapted from Shizuo Tsuji’s Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art)
Lately, in an effort to cut down on the amount of sauces I keep in my refrigerator, I’ve been making my own teriyaki sauce. It’s really easy!
- Mix together ingredients above in a small sauce pan, and bring to a boil.
- When it reaches a boil, turn off the heat and allow the sauce to cool to room temperature. That’s it!
walking through whole foods the other day, i spied the most glorious and gigantic head of cabbage — creamy white florets surrounded by dewy green leaves. it must have weighed 10 lbs by itself because after picking it up, i realised that i’d have a hard time lugging home another at the 2 for $5 price. we’ve been eating cauliflower for the past 3 days. i’ve had the chance to roast it, stir fry it and yes…to finally conduct an at home cauliflower panna cotta trial.
my lucky stomach has been to thomas keller’s per se twice thus far. and each time, aside from the fact that i feel as if i’m bursting at the seams with food, i walk away thinking that the degustatory evening was a rather zen-ish, cocoon-like experience — a bit, i suppose, like holly golightly falling in love with tiffany’s because nothing ever goes wrong at per se.
reading the cauliflower panna cotta recipe, i gained a deeper sense of chef keller’s genius. the panna cotta itself is quite straight forward. but what i didn’t notice while eating it was the transparent oyster gelee he used to coat the top of the panna cotta. that thin gelee layer leant both a glossy finish to the dish as well as adding a briny complexity which cut through the richness of the panna cotta. glancing through the other recipes, i realised that none of keller’s dishes are quite as simple as they might have looked at the restaurant.
for my home version (picture above), i made just the cauliflower panna cotta, leaving out the oyster gelee and the caviar. i also took a shortcut and spooned the panna cotta into one serving dish — a definite mistake; it should have been separated into 12 servings. the resulting panna cotta is so dense and rich, that it really should be eaten in small quantities. any serving size beyond the size of a 3 inch ramekin is really too much.
Cauliflower Panna Cotta
(adapted from the French Laundry cookbook)
||8 oz. Cut into ½ inch florets
||1 sheet (note: these are kind of hard to find in the US grocery store. I usually pick them up in London. You can however order them online. Additionally, gelatin sheets come in 2 sizes. The ones I buy in London are about half the size of the gelatin sheets used in the professional kitchens. By 1 sheet, I believe Chef Keller means those that are 8-9 inches in length (the width will vary). Additionally, 3-4 sheets are roughly equivalent to 1 envelope of Knox gelatin)
- Spread cauliflower evening in a saucepan
- Add butter and water.
- Simmer for ~30 minutes, until the water is mostly evaporated.
- Add the cream and simmer for another 10 minutes. The cauliflower should be completely cooked at this point.
- Transfer the mixture in the saucepan into a food processor and blend until completely smooth.
- Strain it. Chef Keller advises using a chinois. Lacking one, I used the strainer I had on hand.
- Add salt for taste.
- Soak the gelatin in cold water for 2 to 3 minutes. When the gelatin leaf has softened, squeeze out the excess liquid and add it to the warm cauliflower mixture. If for some reason, you’ve allowed your cauliflower mixture to cool and the gelatin won’t melt, you can put it over a water bath. That said, don’t overcook the gelatin — it will smell like fish bones if you do.
- Spoon 2 tbsp of the panna cotta into 12 serving bowls and refrigerate for at least 1 hour to set.
- When set, top the panna cotta with 1 tsp of oyster gelee and garnish with a quenelle of caviar (beluga, of course)
||¼ cup (Chef Keller gives instructions in his book on how to make oyster juice from fresh oysters)
|Freshly ground pepper
||3 turns of the pepper mill
- Place water and gelatin sheet in a small bowl and set over a water bath. Stir constantly to dissolve the gelatin.
- Remove the bowl from the water bath and add in the oyster juice.
- Stir until everything is well combined.
- Add in the pepper.
- Chill in refrigerator until it has thickened to the consistency of oil and the pepper bits are suspended in the jelly.